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Best veggieburgers in East London

Veggieburgers have come a long way - and London's vegetarian scene has quite a lot going on in the burger department! - so I wanted to try a few of them. I particuarly wanted to work out, for my own cooking, what's a good strategy for making a veggieburger that is hearty, tasty, and, well, frankly, worth ordering. For me, your old-fashioned beanburger isn't going to do it.

So here's my list of top veggieburgers in London so far, mostly in East London. It's not an exhaustive survey, and I might update it, but I wanted to get at least 5 really solid recommendations and then write this up. I'm surprised to find that most of them are not only vegetarian but vegan. Here's the top 5! You should definitely eat these:

  1. Untitled Arancini (Dalston) "vegan burger" - Really tasty and substantial fast food, made of their risotto stuff. A good whack of umami from the aubergine sauce, and good chips too. Highly recommended burger. As this other blogger puts it: "This is a burger where all the elements are nicely thought through - good bun, fresh salad, lots of good chutney [and the burger is] one note in a well-played burger orchestra."
  2. Untitled Mildred's (Camden and elsewhere - Dalston coming soon) "smoked tofu, lentil, piquillo pepper burger" - A great burger with plenty of bite to it, nice smoky burgery flavour. I think the tofu provides the heft while the lentils add texture. It was a little bit dry so I had to add tomato ketchup (nowt wrong with that), and with that in place it was the full package. Just look at it!
  3. UntitledEat17 (Homerton): This was a curious place, housed in the corner of a Spar supermarket, and also serving the Castle cinema upstairs. Anyway they gave me a nice black bean + quinoa burger, with a good crispy exterior. Presumably it's got some beetroot in it too, given the rich purpley colour. The flavour of the burger itself could be a bit heavier, and the chips were too salty as always, but otherwise a very good showing, especially coming from a non-veggie place.
    (BTW I think this is the only non-vegan burger in the top five.)
  4. Untitled Black Cat Cafe (Hackney): "beefish burger" I think they called their vegan burger, but actually to me it had a pleasing chorizo-like taste. The burger is firm and hefty (good), the chips are good, and their vegan mayo tastes great.
  5. Untitled Vx (Kings Cross): a tasty and filling cheezburger, near to Kings Cross station - handy! They're not trying to be fancy-fancy - in fact this burger has quite a McDonaldsy taste to it, except that the burger patty (made of seitan) is more generous/filling than a McD. Good stuff.

...so that's the top list so far. Plenty more to try. Here's something that surprised me: although there are plenty of nouveaux popup veggie burger stalls popping up and down all around, those aren't where I seem to find the best burgers. They get the twitter hype but they don't seem to have got their recipes to match the hype. The list I just gave you is mostly well-established places (and two of them are omni).

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Some other burgers I tried:

  • Mooshies (Brick Lane) - I had the "where's the beef" burger which is made of black bean and quinoa, plus all the trimmings. I was disappointed that the burger pattie had not much bite to it - it was more like "vegan mince" than "vegan burger", splodging everywhere at the slightest provocation. The flavour was nice, the black beans providing a dark enough flavour (more beef-like that a nut-burger or a veg-burger) and the quinoa provided a good bit of structured feel on the tongue. So I think black-bean-and-quinoa is a good idea, but you really need to put those together with something that'll make a good firm patty. Flavour-wise, the mayo left me with an overly vinegary aftertaste, so I hope they do something about that too.

    On a second visit we had the pulled-pork bbq jackfruit which was fine (but my recipe's better ;), and the onion bhaji burger which was really nice - crispy and full of flavour.

  • Greedy Cow (Mile End) - nice fresh-tasting vegetable burger with a nice crispy exterior to the patty. Definitely tasted like they care about their veggieburger. I liked it and for an omni place it's very good indeed, but it's not up in the top league since I'm more interested in the more "meaty" angle on a veggieburger.

  • The Hive Wellbeing (Bethnal Green) - The burger pattie was oddly small, about 1/2 the size of the bun, which was silly. The pattie itself had a lovely clear fresh pumpkin-seed flavour and texture (it's made of mushroom and courgette too). Nice chutney underneath. The flavours overall are savoury and sharp (also from the mustard mayo too) - good, though potentially not for everyone. On a second visit, I found again that the burger was made of good stuff but was kinda awkwardly put together - proportions a little bit off - maybe it's a good recipe, inattentively prepared? It seems to me it could be in the running to be the best, if it were given a bit more care.

  • Vurgers (popup) - I had the "BBQ nut" one, because it looked likely to be the most substantial. It was a decent meal and hefty enough, but way way overseasoned - so much sugar, so much salt, so much acid. I know that "BBQ" largely implies they'll overdo those things, but there's supposed to be more than those blunt notes. The burger was filling and decent but didn't have much bite - it kept its shape through inertia rather than strength, if you get what I mean. Certainly good enough to mention, but not getting near the top, and served in a poncey-seeming location with price to match.

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